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Taman Negara
... malaysia's first national park
Introduction
River trips take
the visitor into the heart of Taman Negara's magnificent
forests.
In the heart of
the Titiwangsa Mountain Range, which makes up the central spine of
Peninsular Malaysia, lies the country's most important protected
area called Taman Negara (which means 'National Park'). The park
comprises over 4,000 square kilometres of primary forest, mountain
peaks, swift-flowing rivers and cascades.
Parts of the area
were first protected in 1925 as the Gunung Tahan Game Reserve, named
after the area's highest peak. In 1939, while under British
jurisdiction, the protected area was expanded to encompass parts of
the states of Pahang, Trengganu and Kelantan and was renamed King
George V National Park. After Malaysia's independence, in 1957, the
area assumed its current title of Taman Negara.
En-route to the
cascades at
Taman Negara is
also home to one of Malaysia's aboriginal groups, the Batek. As with
other Orang Asli (or 'Original People') they traditionally led a
nomadic lifestyle in the forests, hunting game with blowpipes. In
recent years they have been settled bythe government in villages,
and visits to these settlements can be arranged.
The park also has
a number of caves, some of which are open to the public. Many
species of bat roost in these caves and these secretive mammals are
easily disturbed, so excessive numbers of visitors should not be
encouraged.
Near the park
headquarters there is also a canopy walkway allowing a closer look
at the ecology of the treetops. At 400 metres in length this is
reputedly the longest in the world, though in recent years it has
suffered through lack of proper maintenance. A good deal of
concentration is needed to keep one's focus on the flora at canopy
level, and not be distracted bythe swaying walkway.
Information : A
3-hour boat ride from the Kuala Tembeling landing jetty near
Temerloh was once needed to reach the park headquarters at Kuala
Tahan. Recently, however, a new road has opened to Kuala Tahan, but
this cannot compare to a relaxing boat ride. Visitors can stay at
the Taman Negara Resort at Kuala Tahan, which has over 100
comfortable chalets. Call 03-245-5585 or fax 03-245-5430 for
reservations, and for the latest ferry schedule. Across the river,
budget accommodation is available.
Lodges are also
available at Kuala Terenggan and Kuala Kenyam deeper in the park,
however these are badly maintained and not recommended. The office
of the Department
Lata Berkoh.
River Trips
The easiest and
most popular way to see Taman Negara is to hire a boat and crew at
Kuala Tahan, the entry point to the park and the area zoned for
accommodation. The 8 kilometre boat ride to the cascades at Lata
Berkoh passes through some of the most magnificent tropical
rainforest in Southeast Asia. Huge forest giants line the river
banks, their massive trunks leaning over the river at a remarkable
angle in an effort to reach the sunlight. In places these huge trees
have crashed into the river where the strong current has undercut
the river bank. Festooned with epiphytic ferns, mosses and orchids,
the age of these wonderful trees can only be guessed at.
Other river trips
easily arranged at the park headquarters include visits to Sungai
Melantai and Sungai Keniam further north. Unless recent rains and
landslides have muddied the waters upstream, many of the rivers of
Taman Negara are invariably crystal clear and refreshingly cool.
Fishing is allowed in the park, but it takes a skilled angler to
catch the famed Sebarau fish which inhabit these waters.
Walking the
Forests
A cup mushroom
The exquisite form of Sterculia sp.
Walking trails
lead to a number of mountain peaks. Serious trekkers can attempt the
55-kilometre trail to Gunung Tahan, which needs a good deal of
commitment and stamina. Day walkers can aim for the nearby peak of
Bukit Teresek, just 2 kilometres from the headquarters, and a longer
return trail taking about 4 hours may be attempted. Walking along
the forest trails should not be taken lightly - the paths are criss-crossed bynumerous tree roots and are often muddy and slippery.
Walkers and
hikers invariably fail to see the detail in the rainforest; it is
better to walk slowly and quietly and to keep an eye out for the
smaller forms of nature.
Night Hides
Those who visit
Southeast Asia's tropical rainforest for the first time are often
disappointed bythe apparent lack of large mammals such as Tiger,
Leopard, Rhinoceros, Sun Bear etc. These larger species are
extremely difficult to locate on account of their sensitivity to
disturbance. However an overnight stay at one of Taman Negara's
hides, strategically located close to natural salt licks, is often
rewarded bythe sight of such mammals as the Malayan Tapir or the
Asian Elephant. Even if such species are not seen, simply to hear
the incessant calls of nocturnal insects, frogs and birds in the
heart of the forest is an experience in itself.
Papilionid
butterflies :Fivebar Swordtail Common Clubtail Insect Life
The diversity of
insects in tropical forests is huge ... species probably number in
the millions. Most easily seen are butterfly species such as the
Five-bar Swordtail, which congregate at areas such as campsites,
banks of streams, or along paths where foodstuffs have been dropped.
Perhaps the most
numerous insects are the ants and termites. These form extensive
colonies located underground or in rotten tree trunks. Witness the
millions of busy termites which follow trails snaking across the
forest floor, and you will then grasp how key these species are to
rainforest ecology. Their role is to digest rotting wood and to
return the nutrients to the soil; without this function it is
probable that the forests would not survive, for each new tree needs
the nutrients of fallen, rotten trees in order to grow.
The Oriental Mole
Cricket Gryllotalpa orientalis (left) and the Giant Forest Ant
Camponotus gigas
(above).
The Giant Forest
Ant Camponotus gigas is a rather solitary species which prefers to
scavenge the forest floor. Some specimens can reach over one inch in
length, but despite this huge size they are harmless and will not
bite humans.
At night the
loud, reverberating call of the Oriental Mole Cricket Gryllotalpa
orientalis may be heard. This species inhabit burrows excavated in
sandy soils from where they make quick attacks on passing prey.
Exotic Birds -
Great Argus, Masked Finfoot, Rhinoceros Hornbill
Left : The
uncommon Masked Finfoot Heliopais personata can be seen
along Taman
Negara's river banks.
Right : The
Long-billed Spiderhunter Arachnothera robusta is a regular visitor
to the exotic blooms of the Indian Coral Tree Erythrina variegata.
For many the
attraction of Taman Negara is the abundant bird life, reckoned to
comprise over 350 species. Though many forest species live secretive
lives, either foraging in the undergrowth or hiding up in the
canopy, at times these species may visit more open areas when there
are flowering or fruiting trees. Perhaps the easiest place to spot a
diversity of birds is right at your resort, where trees attractive
to birds may have been planted; birds will be active at these sites
early in the morning.
Rhinoceros
Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros
The lucky and
observant visitor may encounter such exotic species as the Crested
Fireback (a type of pheasant) and the Great Argus as it performs in
its dancing ground. Hornbills are often seen, including the
Wreathed, Great and Indian Pied Hornbill; the Rhinoceros Hornbill is
perhaps the most dramatic of all, with its huge red, orange and
yellow casque. During the winter migration season, when birds from
North Asia move south to warmer climes, the rare and unusual Masked
Finfoot may be sighted along the banks of Taman Negara's rivers.
Keep an eye out too for the attractive Black and Red Broadbill, and
other Southeast Asian forest birds including Leafbirds, Trogons, the
Asian Fairy Bluebird, Barbets, Minivets and Woodpeckers.
Common Lizards
and Frogs of Taman Negara ...
Hundreds of
species of Reptile and Amphibian inhabit the lowland rainforest of
Peninsular Malaysia. The short-term visitor may catch sight of a
handful of the more common species, as shown in the photos below.
From left to
right : Large Forest Gecko, Clouded Monitor, Spotted House Gecko
Four-lined Tree
Frog. Click on the image for more detailsOther featuresof Wildlife
and National Parks is located at the Taman Negara Resort; check
there for fishing permits and other requirements.
Introduction and history
Malaysia’s Taman
Negara, is classified as one of the world’s oldest rainforests.
Older than either the Amazon or the Congo, it has remained
undisturbed for 130 million years. Located near the equator it is
the most extensive protected area of pristine, lowland, evergreen
rainforest in the country. Lying within the headwaters of three
river systems, the Tembeling in the south the Terengganu in the east
and the Relai-Aring-Labir in the north, this vibrant rainforest
receives rain throughout the year, approximately 2,200mm (lowland)
and 3,800mm (highland). The average temperature is 22°C to 26°C.
Taman Negara
originated from Pahang State Legislation in the Jerantut district.
In 1925, an area of 9,240 hectares surrounding Tahan Mountain was
declared Tahan Mountain Game Reserve bythe British authority and a
national park in 1938, comprising of three states, Kelantan, Pahang
and Terengganu. Over 1300 square kilometers of thick tropical
jungles was designated “THE GUNUNG TAHAN GAME RESERVE” and named
“KING GEORGE V NATIONAL PARK”, after the King of England.
The creation of
this park was due largely to the persistence of one man, Theodore
Hubback, Chief Game Warden of what was then the Federated Malay
States. He pestered the colonial government relentlessly for 15
years until the region was set aside for conservation in 1938. His
enthusiasm was carried on bysubsequent state and federal
governments, and bythe Department of Wildlife and National Parks.
Now, it covers a total of 4,343 sq km.
After independence
in 1957, the name was later changed to Taman Negara. The stated
purpose of Taman Negara is "to utilize the land within the park in
perpetuity, for the propagation, protection and preservation of
indigenous flora and fauna".
Taman Negara lies
on sedimentary rock, with some granite and scattered limestone.
Interesting to note that a large part of Malaysia was submerged
under water several million years ago and that, volcanic and non
volcanic islands emerged and submerged from time to time. Peninsular
Malaysia only became land during the Jurassic era. Sedimentary rocks
yield fossils and the bulk of the fossils are found in Taman Negara.
Ten percent is
lowland, below 120m with many huge trees, the majority of which is
covered with lowland dipterocarpaceous forest. There are around
14,000 species of plants, 250 species of birds, 200 mammals and as
many as 240 species of trees that can be found within a single
hectare, compared with an average of seven for a European forest.
Evidence of human
habitation within part of Taman Negara almost 2,000 years ago came
with the discovery of bronze artifacts along the Tembeling River.
One small group of Orang Asli (Original People) the nomadic Negrito
Batek still live within the border of the park, gathering wild food
and hunting with blowpipes for countless generations. In recent
years however, they have been settled bythe government in villages,
and visits to these settlements can be arranged.
Flora & Fauna
Hiding in the very
dense vegetation are the wild ox, gaur (dark in color apart from
white ankle socks), sambar deer, barking deer, mouse deer (not much
larger than a rabbit), wild boars, Malayan tapirs (related to horses
and rhinos but more pig-like in appearance), clouded leopards,
leopard cats, tigers, sun bears (these feed on fruit, honey,
termites.), Sumatran rhinoceros, civets, Asian elephants (smaller
ears and more hump-backed than African elephants), bats, nocturnal
civets (these often beg for food from tourists), squirrel, tree
show, a wide variety of primates, vast numbers of reptiles and
amphibians, and 250-300 species of birds.
The list of wild
animals in the National Park is endless. However, the possibility of
not seeing anything exciting in a week besides mosquitoes, leeches
and steaming piles of elephant dung is common. It is the matter of
luck and timing to spot the wildlife here. There are six wildlife
hide-outs for nature lovers, built around the many salt-licks.
Insects
Crawling beneath
the leaves, in the underground or in rotten tree trunks, bug lovers
will find a huge diversity of millions of tropical insects here.
Commonly seen
butterfly species are Five-bar Swordtail, which congregate at areas
such as campsites, banks of streams, or along paths where foodstuffs
have been dropped. Perhaps the most common insects are the ants and
termites. The Giant forest ant, Camponotus gigas, is a rather
solitary species which prefers to scavenge the forest floor. Some
specimens can reach over two inches in length, but despite their
huge size they are harmless and will not bite humans.
Termites and ants
form extensive colonies and if you take a closer look, you can
witness millions of busy termites on the forest floor digesting
rotten wood, returning the nutrients to the soil; thus serving as an
important species of the rainforest ecology. Without them, the
forests would not survive for each new tree needs the nutrients of
the fallen ones.
When the sun goes
down, you will be entertained bythe wildlife orchestra, the hooting
of the owls and the reverberating call of the crickets, such as the
Oriental Mole Cricket that inhabit burrows.
Birds
For many, the
attraction of Taman Negara is the abundant bird life, comprising of
over 350 species. Though many forest species live secretive lives,
either foraging in the undergrowth or hiding up in the canopy, at
times these species may visit more open areas when there are flowers
or blossoming trees. Perhaps the easiest place to spot the
diversity of birds is right at your resort, where trees may have
been planted to attract birds. These sites will be active early in
the morning.
The observant
visitor may encounter such exotic species as the Crested Fireback (a
type of pheasant) and the Great Argus as it performs in its dancing
ground. Hornbills are often seen, including the Wreathed, Great
Argus and Indian Pied Hornbill; the Rhinoceros Hornbill is perhaps
the most dramatic of all, with its huge red, orange and yellow
casque. During the winter migration season, when birds from North
Asia move south to warmer climes, the rare and unusual Masked
Finfoot may be sighted along the banks of Taman Negara's rivers.
Keep an eye out too for the attractive Black and Red Broadbill, and
other Southeast Asian forest birds including Leafbirds, Trogons, the
Asian Fairy Bluebird, Barbets, Minivets and Woodpeckers.
Reptile and
Amphibian
Hundreds of
species of Reptiles and Amphibians inhabit the lowland rainforest of
Peninsular Malaysia. The short-term visitor may catch sight of a
handful of the more common species, Asian Giant Toad, Large Forest
Gecko, Clouded Monitor, Spotted House Gecko and Four-lined Tree
Frog.
Attractions and
activities
Jungle Trekking
Besides the
abundant wildlife, Taman Negara also offers numerous trails, some
are off the beaten path. The treks vary in duration; some are day
treks while some take up to nine days. Trekking requires
considerable preparations if you decided to take the longer ones. A
guide for longer journeys is a must, Tahan Mountain for instance.
You might not be familiar with the surrounding area. Trekking alone
is not advisable. It is more educational and fun to travel in a
group. Although challenging, the jungle treks prove to be an equally
rewarding authentic jungle adventure. Here are some of the many
trails available in the park.
Negeram Trail
This trail starts
from the ranger's base camp at Sungei Relau and winds through 4.1km
of lowland forest to Pasir Gelenggang. The journey takes 2 to 4
hours to complete. Crossing the Negeram River is necessary for this
trail so be prepared to get your feet wet.
Palas Trail
This 1.6km trail
also starts from the Sg. Relau ranger's station and ventures only
300m along a rough, unkempt trail through peat swamp and flat
ground. Not a difficult trek but you may need a guide as the
entrance and trail is obscure.
Lubuk Simpon
Trail
It is only ten
minutes walk from Kuala Tahan,because of its close proximity, making
it the most popular and crowded. It is a good place to swim.
Interpretive
Trail
535meters long,
it's possible to venture off on this trail on your own. The trail is
marked all along the way with signs and descriptions of fauna in the
area. The self-interpretive trail guide is also available at the
ranger's office.
Teresek Hill
Trail
Located just
1.7km away from Kuala Tahan, the 334 m hill can be reached within 45
minutes. There are two rest stops, view 1 and view 2. One can see
part of the Tembeling river and a view of the surrounding area. View
2, the national park itself and on a clear day one can see the
tallest mountain in Peninsular Malaysia, Gunung Tahan(2,101m). It
can be reached via many trails.
Tahan Mountain
Trekking
It requires 130km
return trek via Kuala Tahan. The whole trail takes about nine days,
though fit people can do it in seven days or less. The best time to
do it is in February through October. The Wildlife Department must
be informed beforehand and a guide must be hired. Porters can also
be hired at additional cost.
Animal Hideouts
Night wildlife
observation can be arranged. Almost all hideouts are built
overlooking salt-licks, where plant-eating animals come for their
mineral intake. Chances of spotting them are 50%. Even if no animals
are be spotted, it will be worth your while to experience the
atmosphere of being in the wild at night.
Here are some of
the hideouts available.
Cegar Anjing
Hideout
20 minutes byboat plus 10 minutes walk, located near Tabing. Hideout is on the
opposite side of Tahan River. If coming from Kuala Tahan, it takes
one and a half hours to walk, but in order to get there, you have to
cross the Tahan River. During the rainy season, the current is
really strong.
Belau Hideout
It is 5 minutes byboat downstream via Tembeling River and another 10 minutes walk
or two hours walk from Kuala Tahan. One must cross the Tahan River
to get there or alternatively use the taxi boat. Walk towards Gua
Telinga, follow the sign and walk for another 30 minutes. There is
an abandoned Orang Asli village near the turn off.
Yong Hideout
Located next to
Belau Hide, it is 5 minutes byboat downstream plus a 10 minute walk
or two hours walk from Kuala Tahan.
Tabing Hideout
It is 20 minutes byboat plus a 5 minutes walk. If coming from Kuala Tahan, it is a
one and a half hour walk. Boats can be hired from the wildlife
department office. Anyone who wishes to spend the night at the
hideout must book their place with the wildlife department as the
hideout can accommodate only eight people. There is a stream nearby for natural drinking water. If time permits, pay a visit to the
Orang Asli village nearby.
Kumbang Hideout
This is the most
popular hideout. Chances of seeing the animals here are better than
the rest because of its remote location. It takes 40 minutes byboat
to Kuala Terengganu and another 45 minutes walk or five hours walk
from Kuala Tahan. The boat can be hired from the wildlife department
office or from the floating restaurants. Do book early if you are
planning to spend a night there as places are limited. It is
advisable to spend two nights at this hideout, allowing a day to
explore nearby caves.
If you want to
trek back to kuala Tahan, be sure that you have an ample breakfast,
snacks to munch along the way and plenty of water. There are small
rivers along the way to rest by, and do not walk alone. From Kuala
Terengganu lodge, walk about 10 mins (along the trail to Kumbang
Hideout), there is another trail on the left leading to Kuala Tahan.
It is marked. The trails are seldom used and trees fall covering the
actual trail. Be careful to choose the right path.
Fishing
Fishing is a
popular activity for Taman Negara visitors. Fishing permits are
required and can be purchased from the wildlife department at Kuala
Tembeling and Kuala Tahan. Permits apply only to waters of Sungai
Tahan below Lata Berkoh and Sungai Keniam below Kuala Keniam Kecil.
No fishing license is required if you fish along the river Tembeling.
Fishing is best
in the drier months of February to April and June to August. Lata
Berkoh is 8km and Kuala Keniam is 25 km from Kuala Tahan, which are
the best places to fish.
Caving
Caves cover about
0.2% of Malaysia land are found only in limestone. More than 130
flora species such as Burmania championi, a semi parasitic plant
that feeds on decaying plants and more than 76 species of snails are
found in Malaysia limestone outcrops and nowhere else in the world.
Most of the limestone outcrops are endangered as well as the flora
and fauna. One of the fascinating things that make caving popular is
the natural configurations of stalactites and stalagmites.
Limestone
originated from shells and corals that lived in an ancient seabed
more than 400 million years ago. Under intense pressure these
sediments become rock, and with uplift of the land, the limestone is
subjected to the erosive forces of wind, rain and streams. Here are
some of the caves available at Taman Negara.
Gua Telinga
To get here from
Kuala Tahan, you must cross the Tahan River using the ‘river
crossing boat’, managed bythe villagers (50 cents). Walk another
two hours to the cave. Another alternative is from Pengkalan Gua
Jetty. A 5 minute boat ride plus another 20 minute walk.
This cave is
about 80m long and eroded almost to ground level. There is a rope
along the way to assist cavers from getting lost. Be prepared to get
dirty as you crawl through narrow passages and negotiate areas of
deep bat guano for at least half an hour.
If it rained the
previous night, expect to wade through the small stream running
underneath in order to get outside. Be careful of the slippery
entrance too. Sometimes cobras are seen at the mouth of the cave
taking shelter or feeding on the bats and giant toad.
Generally, you
will see at least seven of these animals:
Roundleaf bat,
Thousands of these insect-eating bats roost in dark sections of the
cave. The name refers to the shape of the 'leaves' of skin around
the nostrils which help direct sound signals transmitted to assist
the bat in navigation.
Dusky fruit bat,
These are much less common, roosting where light enters the cave.
They have large eyes and no 'radar' system, and are twice the size
of the roundleaf bats.
Giant toad,
Usually found high up, sitting motionless on a rock. The largest of
these toads is bigger than a man's fist.
Black-striped
frog, Usually down bythe stream. Making a loud call of -urch! urch!
Whip-spider,
Different from true spiders, these have large pincers on the head
for gasping prey and a pair of very long feelers. They are not
poisonous.
Cave cricket,
Small wingless insect, pale creamy-brown with a hump back and very
long antennae.
Cave racer, This
snake can be up to two meters long. It is black and white on the
head and tail and shades of creamy-grey in between. It feeds on
bats. Its bite is harmless to humans.
Gua Kepayang
Besar
This is the
largest and most impressive cave. It is about 17km from Kuala Tahan.
The best way to reach it is from Kuala Terengganu or Keniam. byboat, it is less than 45 minutes. A four hour walk if from Kuala
Tahan to Kuala Terengganu. From Keniam, it is a half day journey byboat. It is advisable to spend a night in Keniam. An hour walk is
needed to reach the cave from Keniam.
Gua Kepayang
Kecil
It is a slightly
smaller cave located next to Gua Kepayang Besar. A stream flows near
the cave, making it a good camping site. However, permission is
required from the wildlife department to camp there.
Gua Luas
Located on the
same stretch of limestone outcrop where Gua Kepayang Kecil and Besar
is, Gua Luas is a small cave compared to others in the vicinity. It
is at the tallest of all the limestone hills called Bukit Batu Luas
where a steep path leads up to a rocky slope.
Gua Daun Menari
About 12 minutes
walk anti clockwise from the base of the Bukit Batu Luas outcrop;
you will find the entrance to Gua Daun Menari. A wind blows gently
from the mouth of this large chamber, fluttering the leaves at the
cave entrance. The opening is hidden from view, which is located
high in the cave roof. In the pitch black live thousands and
thousands of roundleaf bats. There are also millions of cockroaches,
tones of guano, cave racer snakes and a few porcupines.
River Trips
If you wish to
cruise down the river to see the best of Taman Negara, you can hire
a boat and crew at Kuala Tahan. Kuala Tahan is the entry point to
the park and where most accommodations. River trips are one of the
popular activities here. The 8 kilometer boat ride to the cascades
at Lata Berkoh passes through some of the most magnificent tropical
rainforest in Southeast Asia. Giant trees line the river banks,
their massive trunks leaning over the river at a remarkable angle in
an effort to reach the sunlight. In places these huge trees have
crashed into the river where the strong current has undercut the
trunk and it is festooned with epiphytic ferns, mosses and orchids.
Other river trips
can be easily arranged at the park headquarters such as visits to
Sungai Melantai and Sungai Keniam further north. Unless recent
rains and landslides have muddied the waters upstream, many of the
rivers of Taman Negara are crystal clear and refreshingly cool.
Getting There
A daily shuttle
service daily between Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Tembeling via Jerantut
(the jumping off point to Taman Negara). Kuala Tembeling departs
from the jetty at 9am and 2pm.
Alternatively you
will have to take either private transport byvan or public
transport from Kuala Lumpur or Kuantan, and it takes approximately 3
- 4 hours from these points to Jerantut. From Jerantut, 16km ride in
a bus or taxi brings you to Kuala Tembeling.
From the
Tembeling Jetty, the Park's Headquarters at Kuala Tahan, is a 2-3
hour boat ride up the Tembeling River.
Train service run byKeretapi Tanah Melayu Bhd (KTMB) is available to Jerantut town.
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Introduction
