Perak
History
Perak is heir to the Malaysian history that
came to a close in 1511 with the capture of Malacca bythe Portuguese. The leaders of the Malaccan empire
retreated south to Johor, where they re-established
their power. The eldest son of the Sultan, however, soon
headed to the north, where he accepted an offer to
become the first sultan of Perak. Today, only Perak
among the Malaysian states possesses a royal house
descended directly from the rulers of legendary Malacca.
Despite the continuity of its royal house, Perak has
one of the most troubled histories of any Malaysian
state. The discovery of tin deposits of unprecedented
richness in Perak at the middle of the nineteenth
century brought rapid prosperity as well as considerable
political turmoil. bythe end of the nineteenth century,
however, Perak's situation had stabilized and its
enormous natural resources began to pay off.
Like Kelantan and Pahang, Perak is a state that is
defined bythe course
of its namesake river. Perak's population is about two
million. Until the nineteenth century, Perak's people
were concentrated along the Perak River, and the chief
city was riverside Kuala Kangsar. However, the discovery
of wondrously rich tin deposits in surrounding valleys
lead to the establishment of and transfer of the capital
to Taiping and, later, Ipoh. The tin mines around Ipoh
are reputedly the richest in the world, and it is no
surprise that the city has expanded steadily from the
time the mines were discovered in the nineteenth
century. Today, Ipoh is one of Malaysia's larger cities,
with a population of about half a million people.
LOCATION
Perak
covers an area of 21,000 square kilometers, making it
the second largest state in Peninsular Malaysia (Pahang
is larger). The state is situated along Malaysia's
western coast at the northern approach to the Strait of
Malacca. It extends deep into the peninsula, with its
eastern border marked bymountains of the Main Range.
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Kuala Kangsar
Kuala
Kangsar, located 48km north of Ipoh on the Perak River, is
the royal town of Perak. It is dominated bythree
beautiful buildings: Istana Iskandariah, Istana Kenangan
and the Ubudiah mosque. The Istana Iskandariah, situated
on a hill overlooking the river, is the palace of the
Sultan of Perak. Although an imposing structure, it is of
less interest architecturally than the smaller and more
beautiful Istana Kenangan, which was built as a temporary
residence during the Iskandariah's construction. The
Ubudiah mosque, begun in the late nineteenth century
though not completed until after the First World War, is a
magnificently picturesque structure topped with a
constellation of bright golden domes.
Kuala Kangsar is also the home of the Malaysian rubber
industry. It was here, in 1877, that nine rubber trees
were planted bythe British resident Hugh Low, marking the
arrival of an industry would within decades vie with tin
as the country's most important export.
Taiping
Taiping succeeded Kuala Kangsar as the capital of Perak in
the late nineteenth century. Taiping was during that time
the thriving center of the tin industry in the surrounding
valley. In the 1890s, disused mining pools at the edge of
town were cleverly landscaped to form the beautiful Lake
Gardens. The Gardens are still tranquil and restorative,
though this once bustling town has become equally quiet.
The country's oldest State Museum is within the vicinity,
containing artifacts such as ancient weapons, handicrafts
and aboriginal implements.
Bukit Larut
(formerly Maxwell Hill)
Bukit Larut, located just 10 km from Taiping, is
Malaysia's oldest hill station. Bukit Larut is not nearly
as developed as the more celebrated Cameron
and Genting Highlands. However, it preserves
much more of the atmosphere of a colonial hill station,
with modest, welcoming bungalows, carefully cultivated
gardens, and a pervasive atmosphere of cool quietude. The
hill is accessible byfour-wheel drive only. A land rover
is available at the foot of the hill. It leaves every from
7am to 6pm. Fare: RM2.50 for adults and RM1 for children.
Lumut
85 km southwest of Ipoh is the naval base town of Lumut.
Of interest here is the Naval Museum which houses a
collection of ancient weapons and historical artifacts.
Lumut is also the departure point for Perak's
internationally-known islands, Pulau Pangkor and Pulau
Pangkor Laut.
River
Terrapin Breeding Project
Located at Bota Kanan, 40km from Ipoh, the project breeds
hatchling river terrapins, or Bataqur baska, which are
then released into the Perak River. Between November and
March, visitors can watch river terrapins lay their eggs
along the river's shore. Chalets are available.
Ipoh
Cave Temples
The countryside around Ipoh is studded with dramatic
limestone outcroppings, many of which are dotted with cave
temples. While many of the temples are of recent origin,
cave paintings dating back two millenia have been located
at one site. The most famous of the temples are Perak Tong
and Sam Poh Tong, both built byChinese monks who arrived
in Perak with the wave of Chinese immigrants around the
turn of the century. Perak Tong is clustered with over
forty Buddha statues, the most impressive of which is
almost 13 meters high. Sam Poh Tong, which continues to be
inhabited bya community of Buddhist monks and nuns,
houses various statues of Buddha among the cavern's
natural stalactites and stalagmites. Perak Tong lies 6 km
north of Ipoh, and Sam Poh Tong is 5 km to the south. Both
shrines make pleasant stopover visits, and at Sam Poh Tong
one can enjoy lunch afterward at the tasty vegetarian
restaurant on the temple grounds.
Kuala
Gula Bird Sanctuary
This coastal bird sanctuary attracts a wide variety of
exotic birds, particularly during the migratory season
between August and December. Hundreds of species of birds
have been sighted here, as well as a number of fascinating
mammals, the dusky leaf monkey, smooth otter, and
ridge-back dolphin among them. For information, contact
the Department of Wildlife and National Parks, Ipoh.
Banding
Resort
Midway along the East-West Highway is Temenggur Lake,
formed bythe the construction of the magnificent
Temenggur dam. Set atop an island in the lake is the
Banding Resort, a small facility offering basic
accommodations and outstanding fishing. The Bandung area
is slated for tourist development in the near future, but
at the moment the Bandung Resort continues to be a lovely
retreat.
Kellie's
Castle
The rubber industry grew with extreme rapidity in Malaysia
at the beginning of the century, and as one would expect
it attracted all sorts of fortune-seekers. One of the most
successful of these was William Kellie Smith, a Scot who
decided modestly to mark his success byconstructing a
magnificent castle. As is so often and so romantically the
case with such grand gestures, Kellie died before the
castle was completed. Equally to be expected is the fact
that this mysterious ruin of a half-built castle is even
more lovely for being unfinished. The castle stands
enigmatically among Kellie's old lands and is visible
across the river a few miles along the road from Ipoh to
Batu Gajah. Visitors wishing to stroll around this gothic
scene can take a sampan across the river or arrange for a
tour from Ipoh.
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Perak
